
How to care for a Rabbit
Rabbits are unique pets. They have specific needs in order to live a long, happy and healthy life. Here is a basic overview on how to care for a pet rabbit:
Set Up Safe Indoor Housing
There are several options to house rabbits inside. They can live free-reign in bunny proofed room/rooms, or they can be contained within a puppy pen, bunny condo, or large rabbit cage. If contained, their space should always be large enough so they can hop around, and they should be let out of their pen for at least a few hours every day for exercise.
Make sure the primary location of your rabbit is not isolated from you and your family. A family room or living room is a good place, as this will prevent them from being skittish!



Bunny Proof Your House
Rabbits need space to run around and explore. In order to create a safe space for your bunny and to protect your belongings, you will need to thoroughly bunny proof the area. This includes covering all wires with plastic sleeves or flex tubing, or lifting them 3-4 feet out of reach of your rabbit.
If you don’t want your baseboards chewed, you can cover them with plastic guards or furring strips. You’ll also have to block off certain areas since rabbits like to chew the undersides of beds, items on bookshelves, house plants, and more. Basically, your rabbit will try to chew everything in reach.
Make sure that your rabbit has plenty of chew toys. Rabbits teeth are always growing! Making sure that they have lots of toys to chew will prevent them from going after your home and your pant legs!
A great website is www.bunnyproof.com our Veterinarian at Coast Rivers Pet Hospital in Abbotsford BC uses their guidelines





Provide Fresh Hay
A rabbit’s diet should consist of 95% of hay. Rabbits should have access to hay all the time, day and night as rabbits are partially nocturnal, they are really active from 4am-6:30am we find. Baby rabbits should be given alfalfa (16% protein) till 6 months of age, and adult rabbits should be fed timothy hay, grass hay, or oat hay they have half the protein. Using a large hay feeder is helpful because it keeps large amounts of hay dry, clean, and accessible. We do sell hay as well!


Alafla Hay
Timothy Hay
Provide Fresh Greens, Fiber-rich Pellets, and Fresh Water
Supplement your rabbit’s hay with fresh vegetables, fiber-rich pellets (in limited quantities for adult rabbits), and fresh water daily. Always look up what vegetables are safe for your rabbit to eat!
Safe Vegetables:
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Basil
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Bok choy
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Broccoli leaves (stems or tops can make rabbits gassy)
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Carrot tops (carrots are high in calcium and should be given sparingly)
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Celery
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Cilantro
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Clover
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Collard greens
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Dandelion leaves
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Dill
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Kale (sparingly)
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Lettuce – romaine or dark leaf (no iceburg lettuce and no cabbage)
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Mint
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Mustard greens
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Parsley
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Water cress
Water:
Fresh water must always be available to your rabbit. If you have a cage, a hanging water bottle is a fine option. Rabbits will also drink from a water bowl. On a hot day you can drop an ice cube or two in your rabbits water dish. If your rabbit does not seem to be drinking enough water you can leave the vegetables fairly wet when you present them
Pellets:
These should be purchased so that they are fresh, as bunnies will turn their noses up at stale pellets. Look for pellets that are high in fiber and low in protein. You will need to limit your rabbit’s pellet intake as he/she ages. Pellets that are high in protein can lead to obesity and other health issues in rabbits. Do not give pellets that have “treats” mixed in (dried corn, etc.). These additives are never healthy for rabbits and can cause digestive problems
Treats:
Everybody loves a treat now and then, but to ensure your rabbits health they should be given only occasionally. Do not feed your rabbit items high in carbohydrates like breads, crackers, pasta, pretzels, cookies, chips, or cereal. Although branded for rabbits, many commercially-sold bunny treats are high in fat and sugar, such as yogurt chips, and should not be given. Never give chocolate as it is toxic to rabbits.
Fruit is the best option for a treat, but again you should give it only in small amounts because of the sugar content. We try to purchase organic fruits that we know are free of pesticides. Like vegetables, be sure that they are thoroughly washed.
Some fruits that rabbits enjoy include:
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Strawberries
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Raspberries
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Bananas
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Pineapple
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Apples (no seeds)
Set Up a Litter Box:
Rabbits have a natural inclination to poop and pee in one area. Take advantage of this by setting up a medium-sized cat litter box or shallow storage bin near their food/water bowls and hay feeder.
Put a thin layer of horse bedding pellets at the bottom of the litter box. Do not use clay/clumping cat litter or wood shavings from wood working, as they are not safe for rabbits. Then put hay on one side of the litter. Rabbits like to eat hay and poop at the same time, so this will encourage good litter box habits
Rabbits like to choose where they want to go to the bathroom. If they pee outside of the litter, simply just move their litter box to that area.

Provide Enrichment
Rabbits can get bored easily. Not only do they need space to exercise, they also need mental stimulation. Cardboard castles are great because rabbits spend hours chewing new windows and doorways. Cardboard castles also provide a quiet refuge for the rabbit when necessary. You can also provide a variety of toys for your rabbit to pique his or her interest.


Groom Your Rabbit
Rabbits are naturally clean animals and wash themselves frequently. But you still need to groom your rabbit on a regular basis. Rabbits go through shedding cycles a couple times a year. It’s important to brush your rabbit to remove all the excess fur. Otherwise, your rabbit could ingest it and have serious digestive issues. Never bathe your rabbit! The fur can get moldy! Simply wipe off any gunk on your bun. Regular nail clipping is also important because long nails can get snagged on things or they can curl into your rabbit’s paw and cause severe pain.


Bring Your Rabbit to a Rabbit-Savvy Vet
Rabbits are prey animals, and so their natural instinct is to hide any symptoms of illness. You must keep a watchful eye to ensure your rabbit is eating, drinking, pooping, and peeing regularly. Smaller than normal poops can be a cause for concern. If you notice any change in behavior, it is important to call a rabbit-savvy vet immediately.
In addition to responding to illness, it is also essential to bring your rabbit in for regular veterinary checkups. The vet can check the ears, eyes, teeth, and gut to make sure the rabbit is in good health. Lastly, consider spaying or neutering your rabbit. Spaying/neutering can reduce any aggressive behavior, improve litter box habits, and improve a rabbit’s overall health. Females are prone to cervical cancer!
Vets we recommend (in the lower mainland):
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Coastal Rivers Pet Hospital - 1993 Riverside Rd #2, Abbotsford - (604) 425-1900
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Allwest Animal Hospital - 2526 Yale Ct, Abbotsford - (604) 870-9333
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Langley Animal Clinic - 5758 203 St, Langley - (604) 534-4813

Understand Rabbits’ Unique Language and Behavior
Pet rabbits are different from cats and dogs. It’s essential to understand how rabbits think so you and your rabbit can live a happy life together. By catering to your rabbit’s natural inclinations, you can build a trusting, loving relationship with your bunny.
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Chinning — Their chin contains scent glands, so they rub their chin on items to indicate that they belong to them. Same as a cat rubbing its forehead on people and objects.
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Binky or binking — (Dancing and hopping madly): A sign of pure joy & happiness!
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Standing on hind legs — May be checking something out. Also used for begging. Rabbits are worse than dogs about begging, especially for sweets. Beware of giving the rabbit treats as overweight rabbits are not as healthy as trim rabbits.
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Flat on the ground, legs spread out to the side or behind — Relaxation, bliss
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Upside down, legs in the air — Your rabbit will only do this when in total bliss, and often after a big bout of binkying.
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Territorial droppings — Droppings that are not in a pile, but are scattered, are signs that this territory belongs to the rabbit. This will often occur upon entering a new environment. If another rabbit lives in the same house this may always be a nuisance.
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Playing — Rabbits like to push or toss objects around. They may also race madly around the house, jump on and off of the couch and act like a kid that’s had too much sugar.
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Occasional Thumping — Rabbits often are displeased when you rearrange their stuff. They are creatures of habit and when they get things just right, they like them to remain that way, and may thump in anger.
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Constant Thumping — He/she is frightened, mad or trying to tell you that there’s danger (in his opinion).
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One thump followed by a jump — He/she is very happy to be let out of their home
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Tooth grinding — Indicates contentment, like a cat purrs. Loud grinding can indicate pain.
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Tooth chattering — Loud grinding or chattering can indicate pain.
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Sniffing — May be annoyed or just talking to you. Some un-spayed females sniff loudly when being handled.
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Grunts — Usually angry, watch out or you could get bit or kicked!
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Honking — Sign of horniness, usually in an unneutered male.
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Shrill scream — Extreme pain or fear.
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Feet circling — Usually indicates sexual behavior or he/she is in love with you.
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Spraying — Males that are not neutered will mark female rabbits in this manner as well as their territory. Females will also spray.
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Pulling out hair; collecting hay — This could be a pregnancy or a false pregnancy. Usually just un-spayed females may build a nest & pull hair from their chest & stomach to line the nest. They may even stop eating as rabbits do the day before they give birth.


